fw 24/25: reinventing menswear icons

From Pharrell’s buckeroo debut at Louis Vuitton, to the buzz around Beyoncé’s foray into country western, cowboy aesthetics seem inevitable. However, when themes fully morph into archetypes its dangerously easy play into parody and costume, which is why we worked so hard to approach the theme with a certain air of sophistication. While we leaned into clean takes on key accessories like western hats and boots, we actively avoided other obvious appurtenances to create a modern balance.

According to Zagor, “I was inspired by Robert Redford at Sundance, or 80’s luxury in Aspen. There’s been a lot of interest in vintage Armani lately too, which was part of the inspiration. I wanted to offset the American ruggedness with the lush and relaxed ease of Italian tailoring and some retro Hollywood glamour.”

This theme is all about balancing the more sartorial and sophisticated elements of Prep with a modern, streetwear sense of proportion and attitude.

As Zagor says, “Prep is the foundation of almost all American casual dressing. Sure, we have subcultures that don’t seem to borrow from Prep, but often they exist as a rebuttal or response to Prep. Its impact is inescapable. At the end of the day, its classic and familiar, no matter how much you play with it.”

Streetwear has a long history of reimagining classic tropes, Prep being one its favorite subjects and muses. Think oversized chinos paired with loafers and pops of color. Prep is inherently playful and even a bit rebellious at its core, so it was key this season to reign in some of the overt brashness and replace it with mostly dialed back palettes and updated takes on classic menswear pieces like the varsity jacket and the rugby shirt

We were excited to bring in pieces from an OG streetwear brand like Brooklyn’s Triple 5 Soul, whose innovation in the late ‘90s laid the groundwork for countless other brands that use Prep as a touchstone for streetwear.

The name of the game here was balance. How can we mix textures like nappy, chunky knits with butter-soft leathers and sumptuous silks? How can we spark visual interest without relying on eye-catching prints and over-the-top use of color? 

“Right now,” Zagor says, "too much print just felt wrong for the editorial. We have so much visual stimulation at every turn these days—just staring at images on our phones all the time. I miss actually touching clothes. Feeling fabric. I know you can’t touch these images, but I wanted to create looks that you could instantly imagine feeling under your fingertips.”

For these looks it was important to find pieces that provided depth. What seems simple and plain at first is replete with interesting details and inconsistencies that help create personality and contrast. Even the clean and minimalist brands, Mind Bridge and Kuwalla, whose knitwear and leather vest (respectively) were featured here, provide the needed appearance of tangible dynamics that can elevate a look rendered in almost entirely solid colors. As Mind Bridge's rep says, “Our brand is mostly basic styles and limited variation. We are more focused on changing the themes and the materials.”

Indeed, the subtle ribbing on the half-zip plays nicely against the smooth, almost glossy appearance of the leather mid-layer. In the other texture-driven look we created a similar contrast with four distinctly different textures all synthesized into a single ensemble. The wax-coated jeans from Dr. Denim add the sleek leather component, while the nappy high-pile knit from Kuwalla, and the blown-up herringbone jacket from Inimigo both provide ample texture. We’ve even managed to mix in a silk scarf from heritage brand Pendleton to complete the picture.

Yet, while fashion may be moving in a more serious direction, this editorial demonstrates that excitement, inspiration, and creativity, can still shine through.