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Hat by Peter Grimm; Turtleneck by PPFFF...; Gray Button Down Shirt by Pendleton; Wool Jacket by Outerknown; Wool Trench Coat by Mind Bridge; Denim by Dr. Denim
Published May 2024
FW 24/25: Reinventing Menswear Icons
The season’s menswear must-have items and trends smarten up without losing their edge.
It’s inevitable: the “Roaring ‘20s” came to an end, as did the “Swinging ‘60s.” Perhaps it’s just the natural cycle of fashion’s pendulum leading us away from boisterous and bold design to quieter corners of style. Or perhaps it’s something rooted in the social and political moment. This time around, maybe some of the elation that surrounded the freedom felt as pandemic restrictions were eliminated has finally dissipated and this is simply a case of things leveling out. Regardless, the eye-catching color and prints that have dominated recent collections seem to be (at least partially) replaced by paired back patterns and a tactile texture.
Partnering with stylist and trend expert, Noah Zagor, this exclusive editorial photographed at our on-site content studio, features participating brands from the PROJECT Las Vegas February 2024 edition. Zagor’s direction for the editorial’s theme was a sense of scaled back, subdued sophistication that permeated many of the collections on display at the event.
Three themes emerged repeatedly. Perennial favorite Prep and takes on western wear both play with the "Sentimental" theme found in our FW 24/25 Men’s Trends guide by making use of "Tradition Parody"—a method in which classic tropes are both appreciated and subverted. Luxe relaxed looks featuring haptic layering begging to be touched dips its toes more into the "Fragility" trend found in the same guide by exploring how utility can be romanticized through comfort and introspection. All three themes offered opportunity for expression and invention while playing within familiar boundaries.
Western Influence
“I was inspired by Robert Redford at Sundance, or '80s luxury in Aspen.”
- Noah Zagor, Stylist and Trend Expert
From Pharrell’s buckeroo debut at Louis Vuitton, to the buzz around Beyoncé’s foray into country western, cowboy aesthetics seem inevitable. However, when themes fully morph into archetypes its dangerously easy play into parody and costume, which is why we worked so hard to approach the theme with a certain air of sophistication. While we leaned into clean takes on key accessories like western hats and boots, we actively avoided other obvious appurtenances to create a modern balance.
According to Zagor, “I was inspired by Robert Redford at Sundance, or 80’s luxury in Aspen. There’s been a lot of interest in vintage Armani lately too, which was part of the inspiration. I wanted to offset the American ruggedness with the lush and relaxed ease of Italian tailoring and some retro Hollywood glamour.”
The styling also worked in some decidedly non-western prints and patterns to create a contrast in places that still somehow held together. India/LA-based brand Raga Man, which creates pieces from a mixture of vintage and “new traditional” Indian textiles, provided the shirts featured in both western-inspired looks.
"The bridge is not built by highlighting our sameness; it is by actually embracing the differences and playing with them.”
- Sahil Chaudry, Owner, Raga Man
As Raga Man owner, Sahil Chaudry explains, “We are often seeking tension between our Indian heritage and Western home. I find it really exciting that the very tension that highlights difference is also the tension that is able to build a bridge between worlds. The bridge is not built by highlighting our sameness; it is by actually embracing the differences and playing with them.”
Professorial Prep
“...[Prep is] classic and familiar, no matter how much you play with it.”
— Noah Zagor, Stylist and Trend Expert
This theme is all about balancing the more sartorial and sophisticated elements of Prep with a modern, streetwear sense of proportion and attitude.
As Zagor says, “Prep is the foundation of almost all American casual dressing. Sure, we have subcultures that don’t seem to borrow from Prep, but often they exist as a rebuttal or response to Prep. Its impact is inescapable. At the end of the day, its classic and familiar, no matter how much you play with it.”
Streetwear has a long history of reimagining classic tropes, Prep being one its favorite subjects and muses. Think oversized chinos paired with loafers and pops of color. Prep is inherently playful and even a bit rebellious at its core, so it was key this season to reign in some of the overt brashness and replace it with mostly dialed back palettes and updated takes on classic menswear pieces like the varsity jacket and the rugby shirt
We were excited to bring in pieces from an OG streetwear brand like Brooklyn’s Triple 5 Soul, whose innovation in the late ‘90s laid the groundwork for countless other brands that use Prep as a touchstone for streetwear.
As Triple 5 Soul's brand rep, Eric Flores says, “…streetwear loves to reimagine genres and stereotypes. Triple 5 Soul has had a long history in making collegiate parodies for the brand, and we’ll continue to push those boundaries.” After some time away from the game, the brand relaunched for FW 23/24 recently stating, “We think perhaps a version of streetwear will die down, but the world will always look to innovative designers and artists for the fashion we feel energized to wear, and we think regardless of if it’s called streetwear, it’ll have the soul of what streetwear has represented to us.”
It’s why the oversized, cropped, pleated pants featured here are such a perfect embodiment of the style and ideas we were trying to convey—they feel rooted in the past, perfectly current, and authentic to Triple 5 Soul, while not looking exactly like anything from their archives.
Timely Textures
"I know you can’t touch these images, but I wanted to create looks that you could instantly imagine feeling under your fingertips.”
- Noah Zagor, Stylist and Trend Expert
The name of the game here was balance. How can we mix textures like nappy, chunky knits with butter-soft leathers and sumptuous silks? How can we spark visual interest without relying on eye-catching prints and over-the-top use of color?
“Right now,” Zagor says, "too much print just felt wrong for the editorial. We have so much visual stimulation at every turn these days—just staring at images on our phones all the time. I miss actually touching clothes. Feeling fabric. I know you can’t touch these images, but I wanted to create looks that you could instantly imagine feeling under your fingertips.”
For these looks it was important to find pieces that provided depth. What seems simple and plain at first is replete with interesting details and inconsistencies that help create personality and contrast. Even the clean and minimalist brands, Mind Bridge and Kuwalla, whose knitwear and leather vest (respectively) were featured here, provide the needed appearance of tangible dynamics that can elevate a look rendered in almost entirely solid colors. As Mind Bridge's rep says, “Our brand is mostly basic styles and limited variation. We are more focused on changing the themes and the materials.”
Indeed, the subtle ribbing on the half-zip plays nicely against the smooth, almost glossy appearance of the leather mid-layer. In the other texture-driven look we created a similar contrast with four distinctly different textures all synthesized into a single ensemble. The wax-coated jeans from Dr. Denim add the sleek leather component, while the nappy high-pile knit from Kuwalla, and the blown-up herringbone jacket from Inimigo both provide ample texture. We’ve even managed to mix in a silk scarf from heritage brand Pendleton to complete the picture.
Yet, while fashion may be moving in a more serious direction, this editorial demonstrates that excitement, inspiration, and creativity, can still shine through.
Trend Takeaways:
Classic themes will never die: Prep and western wear were at the core of many of the looks in this editorial and for a good reason—they are iconic symbols of American style. The key when buying is to look for newness that pays homage to all the past iterations while still feeling fresh and new for the season.
Don’t create a costume: It’s easy to slip into playing a game of dress-up when reaching for cowboy hats and denim (unless you live on a ranch and are an actual cowboy). When building your ranges, avoid this by mixing in plenty of prints, patterns, and designs that aren’t part of the typical western-wear vernacular as part of your buy, creating a post-modern mash-up that feels unabashedly current.
Play with texture instead of print: Creating interest and contrast through print is usually the first stop on the styling train. Instead, challenge yourself by reaching for a mix of contrasting textures to create the same interest, but in a quieter, more serious look. You’ll be surprised by how dynamic your retail racks and e-commerce can look when devoid of print. You can even double-down and keep things mostly monochromatic, allowing the textures to really do all the talking.
Be serious… but not so serious. While clothing and mood right now are more serious than in recent seasons, look for subtle ways to inject personality and excitement that are not super showy. Sure, the result might be a bit more serious, but it can still be interesting, and more importantly, it’ll be timely.
Learn more about our upcoming PROJECT Las Vegas event this August 19-21, 2024, and if you aren't registered already register now to shop a variety of on trend products this season at PROJECT Las Vegas.
Looking for more Trend Content? Register now for the SS25 Men's Trends Digital Discovery Session Thursday, June 20, 10 a.m PST / 1 p.m. EST.
Production Credits: Producers: Gauge Theory Creative; Photographer: Linnéa Stephan; Stylist: Noah Zagor; Assistant Stylist: Enrique Sahagun; Hair & Make-Up: Zee Clemente
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